mark
397 posts
Joined: 18/08/2005 14:01:28
Location: Hitchin United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
CV pots
the method i use is to undo the two bolts for the caliper, and remove it, tie up with a bungie strap. undo top and bottom ball joint and track rod end, remove the hub, and turn the hub upside down, so the top ball joint is in the bottom arm. sounds daft, but it cant fall anywhere and has a little pressure on the shaft outwards.
then using tool xyz, split the joint. sometimes you need to revolve the shaft as the spring clip is in the wrong place and you hitting tool xyz does not work.
i sometimes use a ball joint splitter, the forked type, and use 1 side of that to release the pot joint, as i have the special tool but find this easier to use. 2 or 3 sharp blows should release it, and it helps if you have a person on the shaft applying a little outward pressure.
when refitting a drive shaft, try the upside down hub method, and when the spline are lined up just give the upper edge a sharp jolt and it usually drops in first time. if you damage the rubber caps on the ball joints they sell them on here less than £1.00 each, always replace them !
Posted: Sep 11, 2007 02:08 PM
Batmini
168 posts
Joined: 11/03/2007 10:47:54
Location: Kidderminster United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
mayfair brakes.
If you're handy with a spanner and have the tools then this job isn't too bad. I assume your mini is on 12 inch wheels, so this should keep the cost down a bit.
You would be best off buying 12 inch disk assemblies which should have the right cv joints, hubs, disks and calipers. Then get yourself a haynes manual to show you how, with the aid of a ball joint splitter, you take off your old hubs.
Buying the panels for doing the sills and steps will be fairly cheap, about £50-£100 depending on genuine or copy panels being used. The expensive bit is getting them fitted. Expect to pay in the region of £300 or more for someone to fit and paint them.
Rear subframe not too bad. Haynes manual again, Tank out, Wheels chocked then jack up rear end. Disconnect handbrake cable, brake pipes and shocks at top. Spray releasing oil over front bolts of subframe (just in front of rear wheel). Support subframe on jack, PRAY, then remove front and rear bolts for subframe (8 bolts). Replace bolts for stainless type and replace subframe rubbers (only a couple of quid).
Posted: Feb 20, 2009 05:47 PM
TWICE MoNkEy!
12 posts
Joined: 11/05/2005 13:47:51
Location: Caterham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Bits Wanted Please!
Heres the situation. I have just painted my front subframe which now looks very nice and new. I now want to start building it back up again, but need some bits for it. Also, I need some other bits on top of that. What I require mainly are parts that I doubt people will have spare and Ill probably need to buy them new, but hey, theres no harm in asking and Im a student, so Im always after a bargain, or cheaper than new prices at least. OK, I require the following: Set of 1.5deg Neg. Camber Arms Set of Heavy Duty Adj. Tie Rods 2 Upper Arm rebuild kits 2 Raduis arm rebuild kits Poly Bushes (Unused) for front suspension components (tie rods, bump stops, lower arms, etc 2 Longer track rod ends (the ones for lowered car and cars with neg. camber) 2 Ball joint/swivel pin kits 2 Unused doors seals Ball Joint splitter (scissor type) 4 Rear Subframe bolts (Short Bolts) Unused brake shoes for front and rear drum brakes Unused brake cylinders for front and rear drum brakes Stainless Steel Braided Brake and Clutch hoses (Unused) You can e-mail me, but youre better off calling me on 07914 356631. If you do want to e-mail me, then my address is: twicemonkey@gmail.com
Posted: Oct 17, 2005 05:01 PM